It was very late in the evening when I arrived at the North Yanco station from Narandera – fifteen miles.  For at least seven miles myself and horse paddled through water and mud, and the rain poured down furiously and blindingly at first, and then it set in with a settled persistency.  On a jaded horse, groping in the dark along an unknown road, where the miles seemed interminable, even Mark Tapley could scarcely “feel jolly.”

In time the lights, which were dotted about and pointed to the station-township appeared, and at length I reached North Yanco, and received a hearty welcome from Mr. Alexander McNeill and Mr. Elwyn, the proprietor and superintendent, whom I had met some months before.  A cheerful fire and a good supper soon dispelled the unpleasant sensations of the few hours out, and though

North Yanco, McNeill Brothers’ station, is about seventy five miles from Wagga Wagga, and 100 miles from Hay.  The home station and residence of Mr. Alexander McNeill are on the northern bank of the Murrumbidgee.  As incidentally remarked, North Yanco is a small township in its way, and besides the residence of Mr. McNeill, and the superintendent, there is a store, a blacksmith’s shop, of bark, a shipping wool room, capable of holding 300 bales, mens’ huts of stone, stables, and a number of other buildings.  The new residence just being completed is a fine brick building, double roofed, and covered with galvanized iron.  The interior, including flooring and ceiling, is lined with the beautifully grained Murrumbidgee pine.  The grounds before the residence are already laid out for a shrubbery.  The old residence has a capital garden around it.  To the west is the comfortable residence of the superintendent.  It is also a brick building with verandah, and a garden in front.  In the square is the station store.  The well is also in the square and worked with double action pump by horse power, which raises the water into the tanks, supported by pillars twenty feet high.  From these tanks pipes are laid on to the superintendent’s residence and the garden.

The area of North Yanco is 240 square miles; and it has a frontage of twelve miles to the Murrumbidgee.  About 10,000 acres are purchased.  The station is splendidly improved, and many thousands have been expended in fencing, damming for water supply, and in the erection of machinery for spouting and hot water washing wool.  The station carries about 60,000 sheep, and a few hundred head of cattle.  The sheep are chiefly the descendants of the flocks of Bayley, Cox, and other celebrated western breeders.  The wool fro North Yanco last year averaged 2s 6d per lb.

This year it was calculated that 85 per cent of lambs would be obtained.  The whole of the run is fenced in, and subdivided.  Upwards of 260 miles of fencing have been erected, at an average cost of £40 per mile.  Though the station has such a good frontage to the Murrumbidgee, and is also watered by an ana-branch, the Cudgell Creek, which runs parallel to the river for seven miles, yet it was found necessary to greatly increase the water supply by the construction of nine or ten dams, wells, and tanks, at a cost of over £5000.  These statistics will give an idea of the expenditure connected with the stocking of the salt bush and myall country of Riverina.  Messrs. McNeill Brothers employ about forty hands on the North Yanco station.  Though there is no post-office, a mail is made up specially for the North Yanco station; and I believe that this is found necessary on most other large stations on Riverina.

The day after my arrival at the station the practical superintendent, Mr. Elwyn, rode with me to the woolshed, distant nearly three miles in an easterly direction.  It is a large wooden and shingled building in the form of a T.  It is 180 feet long and 35 feet wide.  There is accommodation for 32 shearers.  Two screen folding tables, and a traveling box screw wool press are used.  A wool store is adjacent to the shed; and a short distance away are the superintendents quarters; the shearers, and the “rouse-about” men’s huts.

About 11 miles in a north-westerly direction from the home station there is a large clay pan where an extraordinary spectacle is to be seen.  Men from the station were trying for water some years ago, and at an excavation of the depth of 9 feet they came upon a singular aboriginal grave yard.  Innumerable bones were turned up and a careful examination for a considerable distance revealed thousands of ovoid shaped aboriginal graves.  Many graves were double, tier above tier, and mostly running parallel, east and west.  The supposition is that the country was once very thickly populated about here; or that a great battle took place in the vicinity, many years ago.

Leaving North Yanco, a ride of a few hours down the northern bank of the river brought me to a pleasant looking station called Gojelderi, though this seems to be a corruption of the aboriginal name Cudgelderie.  Gojelderi is a fine homestead, and I should think one of the most comfortable on the Murrumbidgee.  The station is the property and residence of J.A. Dallas, Esq., J.P.

The residence is approached from the roadside, 300 yards away, across a green lawn, or meadow, and then through a shrubbery and garden.  It is built of pine.  It has a double roof verandah in front, and porchway, enshrouded with the passionflower, connects the house with the laundry and kitchen.  The shrubbery and garden is a maze in some parts.  A circular flower bed, with a cypress growing in the centre, is in front of the residence; to the left are circles, triangles, squares, parallelograms, and many other geometrically-planned figures, planted with choice flowers, amongst which I noticed several beautiful varieties of roses, and the desert pea.  Having regard to the intense heat of Riverina in summer, there is formed from the house to the front gateway, a vine trellis 200 feet long, which will be a cool retreat in the warm weather.  A good hedge surrounds the garden, which is very neatly kept, and, though young, speaks well for its future.

Immediately at  the back of the residence is the Murrumbidgee, which at this time of the year, with the steamboats passing and re-passing, and then gliding along between the trees along the river’s tortuous course, is a sight worth seeing.  To the left of the residence, are the stables, coach-house, &c.; and further still, the superintendent’s comfortable cottage, with two fine Cuba trees shading it in front.

An inspection of the stables gave me an opportunity of seeing two fine horses which are spoken highly of in the district.  The names of their relatives are a guarantee of their pedigree.  The first shown was Yattendon, a thoroughbred stallion, sire Yattendon the Great, and his dam is Greenmantle.  The other is a grey, called Sweet William, and his sire is the imported Arab, Sweet William.  They are both in splendid form and condition.

Gojelderi has an area of about 160 square miles, and has a frontage of eight miles to the Murrumbidgee.  Mr. Dallas has kept in the van of progress with his Victorian neighbours.  The number of gates shows a wise sub-division of the run into paddocks.  Though a cattle and horse station, over seventy miles of fencing, chiefly wire, have been erected.  A number of wells and dams are on the back of the run.  It is stocked by about 4000 head of cattle, and over 200 head of horses.

The next station below Gojelderi is called Cuba, though the aboriginal name is undoubtedly Cooba.  The latter is a name given to a tree which is very plentiful on Riverina, and on this station in particular.  Cuba has only recently changed hands, having been disposed of by Messrs. Waller and Gordon, to the present owners, Stanbridge and Co.  it is superintended by Mr. W.J. McGaw.  The residence is a very spacious building, having fine apartments, and exceedingly well constructed, partly of pisé work.  The area of the station is thirty by thirteen miles; the latter being the frontage to the Murrumbidgee.  Between 180 and 200 miles of fencing have been erected on this run, which now carries upwards of 80,000 sheep, and 800 head of cattle.  The sheep are descended from Bayly and Learmonth’s flocks.

Leaving Cuba, and proceeding along the plains for two miles, I came to the site of the township called Darlington.  The people were complaining of the want of a post-office here to accommodate both sides of the river.  It is eighty miles from Hay, and forty miles from Narrandera; no post-office is between, so the people would seem to have made out a good case in the petition which has been presented.  There is one hotel at Darlington, called the Coach and Horses, kept by Mr. K.C.A. Cummings.  After leaving Darlington the road continues along the river bank, through salt-bush country, and along plains at a dead level.  After three or four hours’ riding over this dreary ground I took, according to instructions, a side path which led through fences, and into paddocks.  Passing through a capital avenue, a plain opens out, and in the distance a comfortable residence is seen.  This is Benerembah, the station of Thomas Baillie, Esq.  The house, just completed, is a well-planned and designed brick building on the bank of the Murrumbidgee.  A boat is moored on the river for the use of visitors.  The superintendent of the station, Mr. John Munro, gave me a pull on the river and across, where some picturesque scenery opened out to view.  To the left was the men’s huts, and further still was the shearer’s hut.  These are well constructed, comfortable buildings, and spoke well for the thoughtfulness of those in charge of the station for the care of the men.  About a quarter of a mile from the house is the Benerembah woolshed, and woolstore.  These are built of heavy sawn timber laid crosswise.  The woolshed is a particularly fine one, 180 feet long and 45 feet wide.  Forty shearers can be accommodated on a push, but twenty-eight is the number generally employed, so that full room is secured for all.  The interior pens and gates are models of system and good judgment.  The wool-press is of colonial hardwood, with screw, and worked by a wheel on a similar plan to Wilding’s patent.  Thirty-three bales per day can be turned out.  Good folding wire tables and sorter’s box adjoin.  This shed is equally complete in regard to the drafting pens and yards connected with it.  It was erected at a cost of nearly £2000.  it may be here mentioned that a larger and more expensive shed on this run was destroyed by fire about five years ago.  It was the act of an incendiary – a scoundrel who had a row with the predecessor of Mr. Munro, and revenged himself by this malicious act.

Benerembah has an area of 140,000 acres, and a frontage of nine miles to the Murrumbidgee.  The run carries about 54,000 sheep.  I have before had occasion to speak of the spirit and enterprise displayed by the large number of Victorian capitalists who have bought station property in Riverina during the past ten years.  Mr. Baillie is another Victorian, and a few solid facts will speak for him in laudatory terms.  The station has been in his hands about six years.  There are now 150 miles of wire fencing erected, and the run is entirely enclosed, and subdivided into twelve large and seventeen smaller paddocks.  To secure a sufficient supply of water, without which it would have been impossible to keep stock on the station except on the river frontage, three dams, one of immense size, and four wells have been constructed, and the books show the improvements on the station during the past six years to have cost £15,000.  These are remarkable facts, as showing how the resources of Riverina are being developed.

Thanking Mr. Munro for his hospitality and assistance, I proceed on my journey “down the river.”  A canter over the plains for six miles brought me into some splendid salt-bush country, and then I found myself at Bringagee, the beginning of the leviathan station of Groongal, the property of Mr. Thomas Learmonth, of Ercildoun.

The name of Mr. Thomas Learmonth of Ercildoun, is a household word among the sheep-farmers and squatters of Victoria and Riverina.  Mr. Learmonth is the Bayley of Victoria, and divides the honours in Riverina with the latter gentleman.  The Riverina station is an immense one, and is carried on in conjunction with Ercildoun by Mr. Learmonth.  The flocks and herds occupy different parts of the run.  That part higher up the Murrumbidgee is called Bringagee, and is a cattle station.  Sheep are run on the lower parts of the river, and back blocks.  The top, or cattle station, Bringagee, is under the charge of Mr. John Buckley.  The paddocks, enclosed by first-class post and rail fences, contain splendid salt bush, some of the best that I have seen on the river.  The cattle are a fine breed – all Durhams from imported stock, and among their ancestors were Royal Charley, Sir Robert Clan Campbell, and other well-known names.  The number on the run varies from 2000 to 6000 head; about 3000 head are now on Bringagee.

Groongal head station is quite a little township.  Besides excellent superintendent’s residence, it has overseers and storekeepers quarters, men’s residence, clergyman’s house, windmill, and other buildings.  The superintendent of Groongal is Mr. D. McLarty; the overseer, Mr. Hardy; and storekeeper, Mr. Henderson.  The superintendent’s residence is a spacious building or buildings; and to the right is the windmill which draws water from the river to the houses and excellent garden and orchard.  “The working men’s residence” is a model one.  It is the best in Riverina.  It is built of red gum with galvanized iron roof.  It is raised off the ground on blocks.  The dining room is 25 by 18 feet, and there are 7 bedrooms, two beds in each, fitted up with all necessary conveniences.

The kitchen in connection with it, is also a model one, having stoves and other cooking apparatus, and a pantry adjoining.  The cost of this building was £350.  a missionary is kept by Mr. Learmonth on the station.  He also maintains a school.  The station is on the river bank; and a capital punt is kept on the river for the use of the station.  The woolshed, about a mile from the home station, is a huge one, 200 feet long and 60 feet wide.  Two wool presses are used; one of these is Wilding’s patent travelling box.  There is dumping machinery here; and it is the only shed on the river that I have visited where dumping is done.

Dumping may properly be defined as packing bales of wool for exportation.  Each bale is placed under powerful pressing machinery, and when under it, three or four bands are fastened on for the purpose of keeping the bale compressed, as seen in the accompanying engraving.  As vessels to England take cargo per measurement, a considerable saving is effected by means of these presses.  One bale of ordinary wool occupies about the same space as three when dumped.  The process of dumping is chiefly done on the wharfs, and in the wool warehouses of Sydney and Melbourne.  Groongal is one of the few stations in the colony that dumps its own wool.

The shearers’ and ‘rouse-about’ mens’, and overseers’, huts, are near the shed.  During the shearing season 140 men are employed viz: fifty-two shearers; forty men at the wash; and forty “rouse-about” men, &c.  this is independent of the hands regularly employed.

Groongal station has an area of 400,000 acres, and a frontage of twenty miles to the Murrumbidgee.  The run is subdivided into twelve large paddocks, varying from six to ten square miles; and seven smaller paddocks, over 200 square miles of fencing altogether.  Capacious dams and tanks are on the back parts of the run for watering purposes.  One tank in particular having an excavation of 8000 yards.  Through these immense improvements the station now carries from 120,000 to 140,000 sheep, and from 3000 to 6000 head of cattle.

[The article also contains detailed line-drawings of (1) Groongal station (Murrumbidgee River in the foreground) (2) 'Wool dumping' (shearing-shed interior)]

(Town & Country Journal, 7 September 1872, p. 306.)

[BY OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT.]

THE MURRUMBIDGEE. - (CONTINUED.)

A REMARKABLE fact about Riverina is that almost all the stations have changed hands during the past ten years; and of the original occupiers, scarcely half a dozen now remain.  The names of Boyd, Lewis, Phillips and Graves, Hogg, Stuckey, Crane, Hobler, Wentworth, Morris, and a host of others, who were among the first pioneers have almost been forgotten; and the Gwynnes, D'Archys, and Rudds are perhaps all that are left on the country first taken up by them.

(The article also contains a detailed line-drawing of the Presbyterian Church at Hay.)

From Wentworth I retraced my steps up the Murray to its junction with the Murrumbidgee, and again followed up the latter river to Balranald.  Crossing the punt at Balranald in company with Mr. Mitchell, the police magistrate of the district, we had a pleasant ride to Yanga.  About three quarters of a mile from the punt we passed a well-built roadside inn, called “The Punt Hotel,” carried on by Mr. C. J. Silvester.  For three miles further the road wound through graceful pine plantations, and short plains; and Yanga Lake then burst on the view.

This magnificent sheet of water, fed by the Murrumbidgee in flood time, was discovered by Mr. F. A. Gwynne, in 1845.  It is fully fifteen miles in circumference.  In shape it resembles the figure 8, and at the northern end of the 8 the residence is erected.  Yanga station is the property of Dr. Williamson.  The residence is a fine spacious building constructed chiefly of Murray pine.  A good garden is before the house. 

About half a mile from the residence is the overseer’s, men’s quarters, and stables.  At the latter I had an opportunity of seeing some excellent stock.  Amongst these was Pluto, a bay colt by Ferryman, by Fisherman, dam Rose de Florence; Leonidas, by Kelpie, dam Bessie Bell; Mario, a handsome horse by Premier, dam Jenny Lind; and Styx, Sybil, and Castor, descendants of Ferryman, Warhawk, and Pluto, and the great “Talk o’ the Hills.”

These horses show considerable promise, and will no doubt be in the front rank at the local race meets, where I understand they are to show their paces.  The three last named belong to Mr. Stevenson, the overseer.

Yanga is a splendid station, and is much improved.  It extends from the junction of the Lachlan and Murrumbidgee on the northern side, south to the Edward River, as far west as within fifteen miles of the junction of the Murrumbidgee, embracing an area of 600 square miles.  The run is all fenced in, and has over 125 miles of fencing, post and rail, wire, &c., erected on it.  It is subdivided into summer and winter fattening paddocks, breeding, heifer, bull, and horse padlocks.  Besides the Murrumbidgee River and Yanga Lake, Yanga station is watered by a number of other lakes – Condoopie eight miles round, Talbots three, small but deep; Tala seven miles round, Lurika seven miles round, and a few smaller ones.  The run chiefly consists of plains, and pine ridges on the lower part of the run; towards the mouth of the Edward the country is principally mallee scrub.

Yanga is a cattle station.  The breed is all shorthorn, of excellent family, chiefly the descendants of imported bulls from the herds of M’Dougall, of Victoria, and also a few from Mr. Devlin’s.  About 10,000 head of cattle are now on the run.

The morning following my arrival, the superintendent, Mr. Pearson, had a capital pair of horses put to his buggy, and gave me a drive through the run, and to a neighbouring station, Canally, eleven miles distant.  The road was a pleasant one, and the journey was accomplished in about one hour.  We returned in the evening, and on the following day I resumed my travels.  My journey was from Balranald to Deniliquin, via the Edward.  From Yanga, across country, it is about twenty-five miles to the next station, Moolpar.  I had some difficulty in finding my way, for the track was very indistinct in many places.  The country, however, looked magnificent.  It was beautifully undulating, and dotted over it were many fine lakes.  Having had a late start from Yanga, it was long after night-fall when I came on to Salisbury plains, at the opposite side of which was the Moolpar woolshed, and half a mile further on, the residence of the proprietors, Messrs. G. A. and P. Mein, on the back of the Edward River.

Moolpar (an aboriginal name of a native flower of the hyacinth kind, which abounds there) is quite a township in appearance, and has an unusually large number of buildings at the home station.  Moolpar, in reality, consists of eight runs, five of which are on the northern side, and three on the southern side of the Edward.  Cattle are on the north frontage, and sheep on the south.  The run is all fenced in and subdivided.  Beside several lakes and the river frontage, there are ten or twelve dams also constructed; and some miles of cuttings to drain the sandhills, filling natural basins and thus forming lakes.  20,000 yards of excavations have been made.  Between £5000 and £6000 have been expended in obtaining water supply, for this principality, which embraces an area of many tens of thousands of acres.

I made an early start next morning for Moulamein, the distance is twenty-five miles.  The first distance-guide come to was Bimbernett, nine miles, where there is a stockyard belonging to the Moolpar station, but no habitation.  Crossing plains, pine ridges, and a few creeks, almost swimable, another ten miles was got over, and Landale’s woolshed was passed to the right.  Following a wire fence running parallel with the road for about five or six miles further, Moulamein was reached.

Moulamein, situated at the junction of the Billabong with the Edward, is remarkable as being the oldest township in Riverina.  Before Deniliquin was proclaimed a township prisoners were brought to Moulamein for trial.  Hay, Balranald, Deniliquin and even Wagga Wagga have since come into existence, and in point of progression, left Moulamein a long way behind.  The best building in the township is the post and telegraph office, a neat structure of brick, with slated roof.  It is under the charge of Mr. Edward Manners.

The Moulamein Hotel is a well-conducted country inn, carried on by Mr. William Burgess.  He is the oldest publican in Riverina, and perhaps the most jovial of all.  It is the only hotel in the town, and does a good trade.  Opposite the hotel is an excellent country store, the property of Mr. Thomas Linton.  It is well supplied with drapery, grocery, and the usual class of general goods for bush requirements.

The public school, a good building, was closed at the time of my visit.  The cause was not explained.  Nearer the centre of the township, I was shown a large wooden building undergoing alterations and improvements.  I was informed that it had been purchased by two squatters of the neighbourhood, Messrs. Learmonth and Valiant, for church and school purposes.  These gentlemen had further shown their liberality by appointing a teacher at a salary of £100 a year.  These acts of generosity deserve the highest commendation.

On the boundary of the township is the Mooloomoon station, the property of Robert Landale, Esq., J.P.  It has a frontage of eight miles to the Edward, and seven miles to the Billabong.  It is under the management of Mr. G. C. Jaffray.  From Mr. Burgess, of the hotel, who as I before remarked, one of the oldest residents, I learned that Messrs. W. and J. Jackson first took up country here.  They were succeeded by Carne, Brothers, Firebrace and Brown, Landale and Robinson, and Mr. R. Landale (the present occupier) in the order named.

It was raining in torrents the morning I left Moulamein for Deniliquin, in company with the mail contractor.  It had been raining almost unceasingly for several weeks before, and I was strongly advised not to travel, for the reason that it would be impossible for me to swim the creeks.  An urgent engagement at Deniliquin, however, compelled me to push on.  Leaving the road, and keeping wide of the Edward, we travelled through many miles of water, which seemed to cover the country.  It was often up to our saddle-flaps.  Box Creek No. 1, two miles from Moulamein, was safely passed; Boxwood Creek No. 2, four miles further was also got over; but at Gum Creek, six miles distant, we had a swim, which made the ride a most uncomfortable one, for we were there drenched through.  Four miles beyond, and ten from Moulamein we got to Woorooma station, Mr. Lachlan M’Bean’s.  The residence here is a very fine one of brick, but as no person in charge was at home at the time of my visit, I could obtain no information.

I left the mail contractor at Woorooma and resumed my journey amid torrents of rain.  For four dreary hours I paddled through water – often up to my horse’s girths.  The vast body of water spread over so many miles of country was truly astonishing.  For two or three miles at a time I saw no vestige of a track, and it is a mystery to myself how I found my way on that dreary day with a jaded horse.  Towards nightfall a habitation, a welcome sight, appeared in view and in a few minutes afterwards I found myself at Murgah, Mr. F. A. Gwynne’s station.  Here, as in every other place on Riverina, I was warmly welcomed, and treated most hospitably.  I have before referred to Messrs. Gwynne Brothers as being among the small band of pioneers who first took up country in Riverina.  Their adventures and battles with the blacks at that time, would make a most interesting volume.  As a proof of the remarkable decrease in the number of the aboriginals, it is stated by Mr. Gwynne that about twenty-eight years ago, when Messrs. Walker, Morris, and he, were on an exploring expedition for new country, they saw, between Moulamein and Hay, at a low calculation, at least 3000 blacks.  At one place in particular, close to the junction of the Edward and the Wakool, a body of warriors 300 strong received them.  They were splendid fellows, and not without military tactics, judging by the fact that the dense dark mass was drawn up in the form of a triangle.  Murgah is a sheep station.  The residence is a nice comfortable one on the Edward River, 50 miles from Denilquin.  Wishing to reach Deniliquin next day, I made a pretty early start from Mr. Gwynne’s, having first been provided by that gentleman with a plan and instructions regarding the road I was to follow.  The first nine miles to Barratti (Mr. Ricketson’s) was got over in good time.  But after I had gone about 12 miles further, my horse showed signs of flagging, the miles of water he had travelled through on that and the previous days, completely tiring him.  The pace then became very slow.  I frequently had to leave the road to avoid the water, and I was compelled to cross some deep creeks.  As the day wore on, my progress was little better than a snail’s pace, and the track was frequently lost, crossing the plains.  I was at length obliged to give the horse an hour’s rest.  Again I went on till evening, when I saw, crossing the plains, a buggy coming towards me.  I asked how far I was from Deniliquin?  “Deniliquin! why, you are on the wrong road.  This track leads to Wanganella and Hay.  Wanganella is only seven miles from here,” was the reply.  Tired disheartened, a horse completely jaded, the prospect was not a bright one, particularly as night was coming on.  The driver of the buggy, Mr. George Peppin, of Wanganella station, however, soon showed that he was of the good Samaritan type, for my horse was there turned out on his run, and in an hour and a half afterwards, I found myself once more in comfortable quarters at Morago, Mr. Fred. Peppin’s station residence, situated in a nice bend of the Edward River.  Wanganella and Morago stations join, and are situated between the Edward and Billabong, having a frontage to both.  The firm is under the name of Peppin and Sons.  They are famous for their breed of sheep, and a reference to the report of the Pastoral Shows at Jerilderie and Hay, which appeared in these columns a few months back, will give an idea of the high character of their flocks.  The stations are greatly improved at a cost of many thousands of pounds.

Wishing to reach Deniliquin early on the morning after my arrival, I rose at daylight and found Mr. Peppin’s pair of splendid greys almost ready for the journey.  After a hearty breakfast Mr. Peppin drove me to Deniliquin.  Shortly after leaving the house, we came to the woolshed, a fine large building.  The morning was a glorious one, and the country through which we passed was really magnificent.  A most extraordinary sight was the large number of kangaroos which crossed the road.  We saw hundreds.  They seemed almost tame, and mixed almost unconcernedly with the flocks of sheep on Morago.  Mr. Peppin attributes their increase to the fact that the native dogs have nearly all been destroyed; and to the blacks dying off.  The increase of kangaroos on Riverina, generally, is now attracting serious attention.  On one station near the Murrumbidgee, it is calculated that there are at least 5000 kangaroos.  Each is said to eat as much grass as two sheep.

The distance from Morago to Deniliquin is twenty-five miles.  We left Mr. Peppin’s at seven a.m., and dashed into South Deniliquin precisely at 10 o’clock, performing the journey over frightful roads as we approached the town, in three hours.  An exciting election was going on that morning for the representation of the district in Parliament.

(Town & Country Journal, 2 November 1872, p. 56.)

Leaving Morago and the Edward, I struck across country, for 14 miles over plains, the greater part of the way, on which hundreds of kangaroos were feeding.  I then arrived at Wangonilla [Wanganella], the residence of Mr. George Peppin.  This is a delightful home, consisting of a fine large brick house, surrounded by a verandah, numerous outbuildings, a capital garden, tastefully laid out with choice flowers of all kinds, fruit, &c.; a lawn and croquet-ground, and a good windmill; all on the bank of a good stream of water, called the Billabong.  The stations of Messrs. Peppins and Sons, I have before stated, extend from the Edward to the Billabong, and have a frontage of about 14 miles to each of these water courses.  From Mr. Peppin's residence there is a charming view of the village on the opposite bank.  Seen peeping between the large trees is a rustic looking bridge, crossing the stream, and the houses on the other side look as if they were built upon the bridge.  There is no other such view in Riverina.

The village of Wangonilla [Wanganella] is a small one, boasting of a store, a school, and two public-houses.  I had not an opportunity of visiting the Public School said to be excellently conducted by Mr. McQuade.  The Wangonilla store is a good country one carried on by Mr. Monash.  The Wonganilla Inn was built for a squatter, (Mr. Brodribb) whose station it was on.  It is a good large building, carried on by Mr. Dillon.  Nearly as far as the eye can see from Wangonilla, there stretches away a vast plain on the road to Hay.  Crossing this in wet weather was very disagreeable, for the soil was of a peaty character, in places, and progress was difficult.  Twelve miles from Wangonilla I came to the Black Swamp, a small, though neat, roadside accommodation-house, where the mail coach changes horses.  I had some lunch here, served me by Mrs. Smith, who told a pitiful tale of the loss or dispersion of her family.  Eight miles further across dreary plains, and I reached the Pine Ridge, a Government township, under the name of Booroorban.  There is a fine brick hotel here, called the Royal Mail, containing nine rooms, and having brick kitchen, &c.  It has only been completed a short time, at a cost of £1200, by Mr. Samuel Porter, the proprietor of the hotel.  What surprised me most was to see near the hotel some cultivation paddocks - a rare thing about here - 60 acres in extent.  At the rear of the hotel were large stacks of hay, which were grown in these paddocks.  A post-office is sadly required at the Pine Ridge.  The distance from Hay is 30 miles.  The coach arrived at Pine Ridge about 6 o'clock on the morning after my arrival, and I took one of the passenger's seats, while he rode my horse to Hay.  The roads were under water for the greater part of the way, and five horses were attached to the coach.  The pulling was so heavy that the traces gave way several times on the journey.  The first stage, 14 miles, "the Gums," a clump of gum trees, where there is an accommodation-house, was reached in good time, and at the "Settler's Arms," carried Mr. James McClure, refreshments were appreciated.  Towards mid-day we reached Hay, and for the first time for a month the punt over the Murrumbidgee was crossable.

The Hay Pastoral Show dinner and ball, which I have before described, being over I turned my steps Sydney-wards again.  The distance to Wagga Wagga up the river's left bank is 200 miles, and wishing to perform the journey in four days, the gentlemen of the district with great consideration, placed their buggies and horses at my disposal, and themselves or servants accompanied me from stage to stage.  Mr. McGaw one of the proprietors of Burrabogie station, took me in charge for the first fifty miles from Hay to Toganmain.  We left Hay in the afternoon, and after crossing at the punt, passed through some nice country for several miles, and the first station, Eli Elwah was reached.  Approaching the residence of Mr. M.E. Maher, my attention was directed to some fine landscape scenery, pretty plains and trees in one direction, and river scenery in the other.  We stayed at Mr. Maher's for a short half hour, for the evening was approaching, and it soon afterwards became very dark.

Shortly after seven we reached Burrabogie, the station residence of Messrs. McGaw and Company.  If not the finest, Burrabogie House is one of the finest in Riverina.  It has a spacious and lofty interior, with a verandah partially surrounding it.  The garden and shrubbery deserves more than a passing notice.  The ground is arranged with considerable taste, and a vine trellis-worked avenue runs in the form of a cross in the centre, proving a great boon in the heat of summer.  The kitchens, stores, blacksmith's and carpenter's shop, overseer's and men's quarters, stables, coachhouses and other outbuildings make up the Burrabogie township.

Burrabogie is said to be a compound aboriginal word, and is translated as "Burra" quick, and "bogie" swim.  This meaning was given me, but I scarcely think it is reliable.  The area of Burrabogie is 500 square miles; it's frontage to the Murrumbidgee is 20 miles.  It is all fenced in, and has on it upwards of 250 miles of fencing which cost from £50 to £80 per mile.  Large sums have been expended in obtaining water supply; and incredible as it may appear the present spirited proprietors have expended in improvements upwards of £27,000 in four and a half years.  The station carries upwards of 130,000 sheep.  The superior character of these may be judged by a glance at the sideboard of Burrabogie, which is well filled with silver cups and champion prizes obtained at the Riverina Pastoral Show.

A capital horse was placed at my disposal by Mr. McGaw for the next stage of 25 miles, which was soon accomplished.  The country looked very well, though too much water in places.  Toganmain or Toganmai, is the aboriginal for "I am cold."  The home residence of Mr. John Gow [Dow] is in a bend of the river having the pretty and rather musical aboriginal name of Singaramb[r]a - meaning a bend.  The station is a capital one, having an area of 310,000 acres (20 miles frontage to the Murrumbidgee) divided into 40 paddocks, and carrying about 140,000 sheep.  I was glad to meet Mr. Gow [Dow] at Toganmain.  He is a fine specimen of the British gentleman, and an old colonist, whose recollections of the early days are full of interest.

Toganmain has a magnificent woolshed, 200 feet long and 54 feet wide, beside two wings of 15 feet each.  The structure is of red gum, pine floor, and corrugated iron roof.  About 100 men are employed in the shed during the season.  The shed has five folding tables, two sorting tables, and two wool presses, one of Home's travelling boxes, and the other manufactured by Fulton and Shaw, of Melbourne.  A short distance from the shed are the shearer's huts (2) and rouseabout men's quarters.  The residence is a comfortable one.  The bend of the river - Singarambra - is chiefly under cultivation, there being two paddocks of prairie grass looking very fine.

The next stage was to Kerarbury, ten miles, and Mr. Gow [Dow] sent me a guide to his station.  The character of the country passed through offered no additional field for description, being almost precisely the same as the part of Riverina already described - saltbush plains, scrub, pine ridges, &c.

Kerarbury station, on the Murrumbidgee, is owned by Messrs. Clarke and Macleay; the latter gentleman is member for the district.  The homestead (Mr. Clarke's residence), is a comfortable one, and is surrounded by the usual outbuildings on stations.  The area of Kerarbury is about 180,000 acres, of which 8000 acres are purchased.  The station has a frontage of nineteen miles to the Murrumbidgee.  This run is also much improved; of fencing alone upwards of 250 miles have been constructed.  The station carries upwards of 90,000 sheep.  After resting some time at Kerarbury, Mr. Clarke's buggy was brought round, and he drove me to the next stage that day, 22 miles distant.  The horses were good ones, and the country through which we passed was magnificent in places.  We left the road far to the left in consequence of its almost impassable state, and often found ourselves on green knolls, among beautiful belts of pines, graceful coobas, and myalls.  When about twenty miles from Kerarbury we passed the boundary fence, and found ourselves on the great Peters' run.  Two miles further we came to the home station, called Tubbo, and were hospitably received by the manager, Mr. James Burt.  Mr. Peters lives in England.

Tubbo House, I consider extremely picturesque, and the accompanying engraving will convey an idea of its beauty at the present time.  It is near the Murrumbidgee, on the bank of which fine willows luxuriate, a good garden and orchard are before the house; and in the rear are a number of other buildings, galvanized iron woolstore, general stores, carpenters, blacksmiths, and wheelwrights' shops.  The station store, under the charge of Mr. Walker, is one of the best of the kind in Riverina, - well supplied with grocery, drapery, &c.

About a quarter of a mile from the house is the woolshed - an immense building 200 feet long and 36 feet wide.  There are two woolsheds for sheep shearing on the station, and 120 men were employed at the time of my visit.  For the accommodation of this great number capital huts are erected, those for sleeping and having meals in being separate.

Tubbo is a huge station, covering an area of 450,000 acres.  Though the Murrumbidgee frontage extends for 19 or 20 miles it is considered one of the worst frontages on the river at flood time, for it is then liable to inundation.  The station improvements bear evidence of the judgement and energy of Mr. Burt, who has evidently made the most of his resources.  320 miles of fencing have been constructed.  The station carries 200,000 sheep.  This immense principality of 700 square miles all fenced in and carrying 200,000 sheep deserves a fuller notice than the present; and I regretted that the great pressure on my time, did not allow my acceptance of Mr. Burt's kind invitation to stay a month, and see the petty kingdom, over which he rules, at its busiest - shearing time.

The next day's stage was a fifty-mile one, and Mr. Burt provided two good horses for my journey.  The one I got from Tubbo it was a real pleasure to mount and ride, for he was a noble animal.  Mr. Peter Rhind accompanied me.  The first 20 miles were across plains and boggy ground; and we then came to the second woolshed before referred to.  This is recognised as one of the model sheds on Riverina.  It is not nearly so large as the one of Tubbo, but constructed on a better plan.  It is well built, raised on blocks, and has a corrugated iron roof.  The improved plan is that when sheep are shorn they are shot into pens underneath the building; and there are capital drafting yards on a good working model around.  One of Wilding's travelling box wool presses is used.  A few miles from the shed is the residence of Mr. Alexander Burt, who has charge of this part of the station and shed.  I got a fresh horse here, and after lunch, started for Buckenbong [Buckingbong], 25 miles distant.  I had been [on] the road once before, in the summer time, so confidently proceeded alone.  A short time after leaving the house I came to Yanco Creek, which I found pretty high, and after following up the stream for some time, I selected a likely-looking crossing, where the heavy ripples I thought, indicated a shallow place.  I had scarcely advanced two yards, before horse and self went suddenly down over head into the water, and the next moment I found myself swimming down the stream with a strong current.  The horse was fortunately an excellent swimmer, and I gradually bore his head towards the opposite bank.  When about 25 yards lower down the more sloping bank was reached, where, after a few plunges, he landed me bravely.  Half a mile beyond I got to a small roadside inn.  I was of course saturated with water, and my clothing and papers soaking wet and damaged considerably.  It was no use waiting there, so I pushed on, and shortly afterwards reached another creek, near Gillenbah, which also proved to be "a banker," but the horse swam it bravely, though wetting No. 2 was the result.  Gillenbah I have before described as a crossing place opposite Narrandera, on the Murrumbidgee.  I remained at Mrs. Hyland's inn for half an hour, and pushed on in spite of warnings to Buckenbong.  I had only gone four miles when I was told that the river had overflown its banks, and it would be necessary to go twelve miles round to get to the home station of Mr. Jenkins, at Buckenbong.  I then ran up the fence for three or four miles, and at dusk arrived at the woolshed, where I found Mr. Jenkins, junior, just getting in a horse for me, to go to Wagga Wagga the next day, as my arrival was expected.  This act of kindness I most thankfully acknowledge.  I left Mr. Burt's horse at the woolshed, and on a fresh horse accompanied Mr. Jenkins to Buckenbong.  It was very dark.  For six miles out of the nine we travelled through water, up to our horses' girths, and often just reaching the valise.  The vast body of water which covered the plains here, was from the overflow of the Murrumbidgee, caused by the drainage of the mountainous country for hundreds of miles in this time of great rains.

It was about nine o'clock at night when we got to Buckenbong, soaking wet and completely exhausted.  The next morning I tried to cross the Murrumbidgee in order to go to Wagga Wagga on the opposite side, but the impossibility was pointed out to me, and I was compelled to take the longer road.  I again lost myself, (though only for a short time), on the trackless and inundated plains.  The first night I spent, and was hospitably treated, at an out-station of Mr. John Leitch's, and the second day I got into Wagga Wagga.  After many narrow escapes, some of which I have, I fear, somewhat egotistically related in order to give an idea of the trials and difficulties which beset the traveller in Riverina, in winter.  From Wagga Wagga I took the coach to Goulburn, and the train to Sydney, a journey occupying 38 hours, and thus completed my second "Tour to the South."